DOSSIER

  15/01/2022 | Dr François PRUNIERAS

If you want to give your skin a fresh glow and improve its elasticity with a superficial peel, the answer is yes—provided you choose the right technique and take a few precautions.

The principle of a superficial peel is based on applying a chemical substance to the skin—mainly the face—to deliberately remove the epidermis and stimulate its renewal.

Acne, dark spots, smoothing, or lack of skin density
The benefits of superficial peels go far beyond this. They can smooth the skin, even out the complexion, tighten pores, and treat juvenile acne, pigmentation spots, sun damage, dryness, or loss of skin density. The goals are numerous, and this type of peel can meet many needs. Moreover, it does not require hiding away afterward, although patients may feel as if they have a strong sunburn or experience slight peeling.

Products used for superficial peels
Two types of products may be used, each with a specific mechanism of action.

Some peels are fruit-acid based, such as glycolic acid, often combined with other AHA or BHA acids. These acids are easy to neutralize, making the procedure highly controllable.

Others are based on TCA, a powerful acid whose neutralization occurs naturally through the skin, without the possibility of medical intervention.

Regardless of the product, peels must be performed at the right time and in the right way. Fruit-acid peels can be used on all skin types, whether light or dark, but TCA is not suitable for darker skin tones. Superficial peels should be performed between October and April, outside of sunny periods. The number of sessions during this timeframe depends on the indication, skin type, and product used.

Aside from these restrictions, superficial peels are suitable for most people. They can be performed on tattooed areas, on patients with moles, or those with actinic keratoses (a precancerous lesion). However, peels are not recommended in cases of skin cancer or rosacea.

Recommendations to ensure your peeling sessions go smoothly
A few rules should be followed beforehand:

Avoid using certain creams, especially those containing glycolic acid or other fruit acids, unless specifically recommended by your aesthetic doctor, as they may increase the depth of the peel.

Avoid hyaluronic acid–based creams before a TCA peel, as hyaluronic acid makes it difficult to determine how deeply the TCA penetrates, increasing the risk of complications.

For medium to dark skin tones, the doctor must prescribe a pigment stabilizer before and after the session. For all skin types, a high-protection sunscreen must be applied after the peel.

Following these precautions will help optimize your sessions and allow your skin to reveal its full potential.

  Dr François PRUNIERAS

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When and how to undergo a superficial peel